Mount shuksan

There is perhaps no other peak in the North Cascades that exemplifies alpine climbing quite like the striking massif of Mount Shuksan (9,131’). According to legendary first ascencionist Fred Beckey, Mt. Shuksan “epitomizes the jagged alpine peak like no other massif in the North Cascades… it has no equal in the range when one considers the structural beauty of its four major faces and five ridges and the variety of routes they provide.” Coming from Fred Beckey, that’s saying something. 

While there are many ways to the top of Mt. Shuksan, the Sulphide Glacier and the Fisher Chimneys are two of the most popular. Both routes involve glacier travel on snow & ice, and culminate with a low fifth-class scramble up the Southeast Ridge (up to 5.3) to the rocky summit pyramid. The Sulphide Glacier is a more moderate mountaineering route with relatively straightforward glacier travel, which makes it more suitable for climbers newer to glacier mountaineering & snow/ice climbing.

The Fisher Chimneys, on the other hand, is a more advanced and technical route that demands a diverse skill set including: precise crampon technique on steep snow/ice and competently carrying an overnight pack on 4th class terrain. For climbers without basic rock climbing & rappelling experience, we advise the 4-day Sulphide itinerary, which allows you to spend the first day at the Mt. Erie crag covering basic rope systems, knots & transitions for multi-pitch rock.