FORBIDDEN PEAK

While not the tallest mountain in North Cascades National Park, Forbidden Peak is inarguably one of the most recognized and iconic summits in the range. Standing 8,815 feet above sea level, Forbidden Peak is host to a number of spectacular alpine routes featuring ice, mixed, snow and rock climbing. There is no easy way to the rocky pyramidal summit of Forbidden Peak, making even the easiest route a demanding and technical challenge.

The most popular route on Forbidden Peak is the classic West Ridge (Grade III, Moderate Snow/Ice, 5.6). With wild exposure, quality rock and unparalleled views of North Cascades National Park, there’s a good reason why this route is named one of the “50 Classic Climbs of North America.” The approach involves snow/ice/glacier travel, followed by scrambling on low-mid fifth class rock along a jagged knife-edge ridge line. Airy moves and the glowing blue of Moraine Lake against the horizon make this an iconic climb that is a proud addition to any alpinist’s tick list. If you have some experience and want to test your skills on a classic alpine route in the North Cascades, the West Ridge of Forbidden is the route for you! Trips available on a custom basis, July through September.