Forbidden Peak - Itinerary

DAY 1

From the town of Marblemount, drive to the Boston Basin trailhead via Cascade River Road. From the trailhead at 3,200’, we will ascend a steep, rugged trail, gaining approximately 3,100’ over 3 miles to reach our camp in Boston Basin. We will set up camp and eat dinner, fueling up and getting an early night’s rest to wake up ready for our climb the next morning. 

DAY 2

We will get an alpine start, waking up well before dawn to begin our climb of the West Ridge. We’ll traverse polished slabs and cross a glacier, gaining a steep snow/rock gully to gain the West Ridge. At the top of the gulley, we will take a short break and change into rock or approach shoes. From there, we will traverse the ridge climbing mostly low fifth rock with sections of 5.4-5.6 to the summit of Forbidden Peak. This day involves consistent movement and long pushes. Climbers should expect the summit push to take a minimum of 10-12 hours camp to camp.

DAY 3

For some parties, it is possible to hike out on the second day if returning to camp at a reasonable hour. That said, most parties will opt to hike out on day 3 for a most enjoyable experience. The third day involves packing up and hiking back down to the trailhead, where we will return to our vehicle(s) and depart. We aim to be back to the trailhead by noon on this day (this leaves time to be back in Seattle or Bellingham by 3-4 pm). 

Note on Itinerary:

While every effort is made to adhere to the outlined schedule, the unpredictable nature of alpine climbing necessitates flexibility. This itinerary is subject to alterations due to adverse weather conditions, unsafe route conditions, and other factors beyond our control.